How To Train My Puppy

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The Right Leash and Collar for My Dog

2010-01-19T07:34:00.000-08:00

There are several types of leashes and collars I recommend, and one I don't! Here's the scoop:

Let’s talk about choosing the proper leash and collar for your dog. I want to start off by saying that I don’t recommend the use of choke collars – I’ll tell you why in a moment. It’s not a pretty story, so if you have a weak stomach you might want to skip the next paragraph or two.

There are a broad variety of collars on the market, from flat nylon to braided leather to rhinestone-studded glam collars – for the most part it’s a matter of personal preference. We’ll take a look at some of the more popular styles, but first – why I don’t recommend choke chains.

I have a friend who is a vet, who of course, given the nature of his business, sees abused and neglected animals come through his practice on a regular basis. I happened to be in his office one day when an animal control officer brought in a pit bull that had been staked out in someone’s yard for months as a guard dog – never socialized, never brought into the house, just staked out 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

He had been restrained by a choke chain that had been hooked to a metal chain on a stake. As he had grown, the choke chain had become embedded in this dog’s neck, to the point where it had to be surgically removed. It was heart-breaking.

An extreme case? Absolutely. But I’ve also seen dogs that have been tied out in other ways using choke chains, and died of strangulation because the chain gets twisted or caught in some way and the dog can’t get loose. I know choke chains are intended to be used as training collars, but too many people use them as everyday collars, and untold dogs are maimed and injured or killed every year by owners who do this. There are too many training alternatives out there, so please, don’t use a choke collar.

A flat buckle collar, either nylon or leather, is your best bet for everyday use. It should fit snugly, but leave room enough for you to slide two fingers between the collar and your dog’s neck. Any looser than that, and it may slide off over your dog’s head. Any tighter and it may cause chafing and discomfort.

The choice of nylon or leather is simply a matter of personal preference – nylon comes in a variety of bright colors, and is a good choice for dogs that spend a lot of time in the water (or mud!) Leather is durable and will absorb oils from your dog’s coat, making it more flexible over time.

The width of the collar should be appropriate to your dog’s size. For example, a wide, heavy or thick collar just won’t work on a Chihuahua, in fact, it would look ridiculous. By the same token, if you have a Rottweiler, a diamond- or rhine-stone-studded poodle collar is going to look pretty silly. And don’t forget an identification tag – if your dog is lost or stolen, this is a quick way for authorities to notify you when your pet is located.

Another terrific solution is a harness – a device that goes around the neck and ribcage, thus eliminating the possibility of choking. Harnesses are an excellent resolution to the problem of having a large dog that hasn’t been well-trained and pulls or lunges when out for a walk. It’s a great way to restrain the pulling without getting in that choking “tug of war” that you sometimes see. Harnesses are also good for small dogs, which can have serious problems with collars pressing on their small and fragile airways.

Now for the proper leash. As with collars, you have a choice of flat nylon or leather (or braided leather is also available), and as with collars, it’s largely a matter of personal preference.

I use a 6 foot nylon leash for training my dog. I find it’s the perfect length for walking, heeling and virtually all of my training sessions.

Many dog owners prefer a retractable leash. These are nylon leashes that are encased in a plastic casing, and vary in length up to about 25 feet or so. The best models of this type have a one-button “braking” system that stops your dog from going beyond a set distance, as well as a spring mechanism that allows you to adjust just how far you want to extend the lead.

Retractable leashes are a good idea if you walk your dog in a variety of settings: you can “reel” him in if you’re on city sidewalks or in situations where there are a lot of people or other dogs around, then you can expand the distance between you when you get to the park or an open space.

Bottom line – comfort and safety come first when making your choice – fashion should be a distant second!

When Should I Start To Train My Puppy?

2010-01-16T06:49:00.000-08:00

When Should I Start Training My Puppy?

Many people ask me this question.

Here's the bottom line:

If you have a puppy, you must start training early, but do it gently. Your puppy has to have confidence in you before he can begin learning. Remember that puppies are like children - they have growing bodies, short attention spans, and will only learn things when the conditions are right and when they understand what it is you're trying to teach them.

The earlier you start training dogs, the better. More specifically, it's best if you start “socialization” from 8 weeks, simple commands like “come” and “sit” from 12weeks, and more intensive training at 5 to 6 months.

Here's some more on this topic:

When Should I Start Training My Puppy?

Simply put, the sooner you begin training your puppy the better – for both of you. But you have to understand the stages a puppy goes through as he matures so you can form some realistic expectations of his behavior and learning ability. (See previous blog: 7 Stages of Puppy Development)

While some early training can be started as soon as you bring your puppy home, the optimum time to begin obedience training is somewhere around 9 to 12 weeks of age. Keep in mind that training can cover a broad range of topics – I’m not suggesting that you begin training your puppy at 8 weeks of age for agility competitions! Your training should start off with the basics – teaching him “No!” and beginning house-training.

Socialization skills are next – experts tell us the best window for your puppy to learn socialization skills is between 3 and 16 weeks – that’s the best time to insure that your puppy grows into a well-adjusted adult. And remember, socialization isn’t about teaching him the right fork to use at the dinner table – it’s about giving your dog the self-assurance to deal correctly with any social environment he finds himself in is one of the most valuable and lasting lessons you can teach him.

A well-socialized dog will interact well with all types of people and situations, even those he has never been in before. With appropriate social skills, your dog will show little or no fear of most objects, people or other animals, and even if startled, will recover quickly and won’t panic.

Bottom line, a well-adjusted dog is one that is comfortable in a variety of situations and surroundings. He may be excited in a new setting, but not fearful. The key here is to create positive experiences as you expose your dog to more and more new situations.

Even training your puppy for 5 – 10 minutes per day as soon as you bring him home will make a big difference in the social skills and adaptability of your puppy. Keep in mind that puppies have very short attention spans, so keep your lessons short and fun. How short an attention span? That depends on the age of the puppy, his breed and how mature your individual puppy is – but a good rule of thumb is to keep the training sessions within that 5 -10 minute range.

Depending on your puppy’s age and maturity level, sometime between 3 and 6 months of age you should be moving the training into the area of the basic commands such as Sit, Heel, Down, etc. It’s important you have realistic expectations about your dog’s capabilities at this point – I don’t expect a puppy to be responding to the basic commands with any degree of regularity until they’ve reached 6 months of age.

Puppy training (well, all dog training for that matter) has three main components - known as “PCP”. No, I’m not talking about drugging your dog! (Shame on you for even thinking that!) PCP (in this case) stands for the three things you need to keep in mind day in and day out when you’re training your dog:

1. Patience

2. Consistency

3. Practice

Patience is the key to any training program with your puppy. The level of patience you display while training your dog will have a direct impact on whether you have a happy, well-trained dog, or a miserable, misbehaving one.

You’re the adult here, remember? You’re the trainer, the leader of your pack, and the one doing the teaching. You know that your puppy needs short and positive training sessions. You know you can’t teach him everything in one session, or even in a week of sessions. So patience is the key. If you find yourself getting frustrated when training your puppy, end the session on a positive note, and stop the training. Don’t lose your temper and take it out on your dog. It’s not his fault you’re getting annoyed – ok, well, maybe it is, but it’s up to you to maintain control and restart the training on another day.

Consistency is the second most important component of training. I’ve already talked about how important it is for everyone in the family to give your dog the same commands and allow the same behaviors. I can’t stress this point enough. If your family is all on the same page in terms of training, your puppy will be trained more quickly and thoroughly than you can imagine.

Everyone in the household needs to use the same commands. That way, when someone says “Sit” to your dog, he knows it means “Sit.” Not “Lie Down,” not “Ok, go eat your food now,” not “It’s ok to chase the cat.” Sit means Sit. Down means Down.

And it’s equally important to keep the behaviors consistent. You can’t have one family member letting your dog get on the couch and another trying to discipline him and telling him “No!” for the same behavior. It will only confuse him, with the end result that he won’t learn which behavior is right. So he’ll either try to do both, or neither. And either one of those actions will simply get him in trouble with whatever family member happens to be present at the time.

Practice makes perfect. I really hate to use that old adage, but it’s true! Repetition is the way to teach your dog a lesson – any lesson. Repeating the lesson over and over again will engrain it so deeply in your dog’s memory it’s likely he’ll never forget it, and that’s what you want. You want his reaction to your commands to become second nature, obeyed almost instinctively and certainly followed immediately – it literally could be the difference between life and death for your dog.

Any successful training program must include some sort of discipline. Having said that let me say this: don’t ever hit your puppy. Let me repeat that so there’s no mistake. Don’t ever hit your puppy!

In order to apply discipline for an inappropriate act, you must

1. Catch your puppy in the act of misbehaving, or

2. Take steps to avoid the misbehavior in the first place.

If you walk into the living room and find your puppy squatting to piddle on the carpet, you should tell him “No!” in a loud and sharp tone of voice, then walk over, pick him up and take him outside. (Or leash him up and take him outside.) Either way, your puppy can tell he’s done something you don’t want him to do. There is absolutely no need to hit your puppy, just because he’s doing what comes naturally to him.

And, truth be told, if you had been paying attention to your puppy, you would have recognized the signals he was using to tell you he needed to go outside. So the fault for this particular situation needs to be laid at your door, not your puppy’s. You could have avoided the situation in the first place by being more attuned to your puppy’s needs.

So, start early, be consistent, be patient, practice – and before you know it, you’ll have a dog that’s a joy to have around!

And if you want to start today . . . just click the link in the sidebar for the “Dog Training Secrets!” book.

The 7 Stages of Puppy Development

2010-01-14T08:58:00.000-08:00

Are you ready to be shocked?

Puppies go through 7 distinct developmental stages in their first 7 months of life. And you need to know these stages to better understand your puppy's behavior as he grows from stage to stage.

Here's what you need to know:

The 7 Stages of Puppy Development

In order to understand why your puppy doesn’t listen to you sometimes, you need to understand all the stages of development puppies go through as they mature. They’re kind of like kids – you wouldn’t expect the same behavior out of a two-year-old that you would out of a teenager, would you? Of course not! So why do you expect your eight-week-old puppy to react the same way your 3-year-old dog does?

Let’s take a look at the different stages, but before we do, keep in mind that these stages are generalizations – each dog is an individual. I’ve seen six-month-old dogs act more mature than eighteen-month-olds. Socialization and training time you’ve spent with your dog can make an enormous difference in accelerating, or slowing down, your dog’s individual development.

Stage 1: The Transitional Stage 2-3 Weeks

The Transitional stage generally lasts from age two to three weeks, and it’s during this time that your puppy’s eyes will open, and he’ll slowly start to respond to light and movement and sounds around him. He’ll become a little more mobile during this period, trying to get his feet underneath him and crawling around in the box (or wherever home is.) He’ll start to recognize mom and his littermates, and any objects you might place in the box.

Stage 2: The Almost Ready To Meet The World Stage 3-4 Weeks

The Almost ready to meet the world stage lasts from 3 to about 4 weeks, and your puppy undergoes rapid sensory development during this time. Fully alert to his environment, he’ll begin to recognize you and other family members. It’s best to avoid loud noises or sudden changes during this period – negative events can have a serious impact on his personality and development right now. Puppies learn how to be a dog during this time, so it’s essential that they stay with mom and littermates.

Stage 3: The Overlap Stage 4-7 Weeks

The Overlap stage lasts about 3-4 weeks to about 7 weeks. It’s called the overlap period because it overlaps with the Almost Ready period. From 3-4 weeks your puppy begins the most critical social development period of his life – he learns social interaction with his littermates, learns how to play and learns bite inhibition.

He’ll also learn discipline at this point – Mom will begin weaning the pups around this time, and will start teaching them basic manners, including accepting her as the leader of the pack. You can begin to introduce food to the pups starting around the 4th week – transition gradually as Mom weans them. Continue handling the pups daily, but don’t separate them from either Mom or litter mates for more than about 10 minutes per day. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early frequently are nervous, more prone to barking and biting and have a more difficult time with socialization and training. Puppies need to be left with Mom and siblings until at least 7 weeks of age - and preferably a little longer - for optimum social development.

In terms of socialization, this is the prime time for your puppy to learn basic social skills. Experts say that the best time in a puppy’s life to learn social skills is between 3 and 16 weeks of age – that’s the window of opportunity you have to make sure your puppy grows up to be a well-adjusted dog. It’s extremely important to leave your puppy with Mom and his littermates during this period. Don’t discipline for play fighting, housebreaking mistakes or mouthing – that’s all normal behavior for a puppy at this stage.

Stage 4: The “I’m Afraid of Everything” Stage 8 Weeks to 3 Months

The “I’m Afraid of Everything” Stage lasts from about 8 weeks to 3 months, and is characterized by rapid learning as well as a “fearful period” that usually pops up at around 8 to 10 weeks. Not all dogs experience this, but most do, and they’ll appear terrified over things that they took in stride before. This is not a good time to engage in harsh discipline (not that you ever should anyway!), loud voices or traumatic events.

At this time your puppy’s bladder and bowels are starting to come under much better control, and he’s capable of sleeping through the night. (At last, you can get some rest!) You can begin teaching simple commands like: come, sit, stay, down, etc. Leash training can begin. It’s important not to isolate your puppy from human contact at this time, as he’ll continue to learn behaviors and manners that will affect him in later years.

Stage 5: The Juvenile Stage 3 Months to 4 Months

The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and it’s during this time your puppy is most like a toddler. He’ll be a little more independent - he might start ignoring the commands he’s only recently learned – just like a child does when they’re trying to exert their new-found independence. As in “I don’t have to listen to you!” Firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and training is what’s required here.

He might start biting you – play biting or even a real attempt to challenge your authority. A sharp “No!” or “No bite!” command, followed by several minutes of ignoring him, should take care of this problem. Continue to play with him and handle him on a daily basis, but don’t play games like tug of war or wrestling with him. He may perceive tug of war as a game of dominance – especially if he wins. And wrestling is another game that can rapidly get out of hand. As your puppy’s strength grows, he’s going to want to play-fight to see who’s stronger – even if you win, the message your puppy receives is that it’s ok to fight with you. And that’s not ok!

Stage 6: The Brat Stage 4-6 Months

The Brat Stage starts at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months, and it’s during this time your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and willfulness. You may see a decline in his urge to please you – expect to see more “testing the limits” type of behaviors. He’ll be going through a teething cycle during this time, and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period.

He may try to assert his new “dominance” over other family members, especially children. Continue his training in obedience and basic commands, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless you’re in a confined area. Many times pups at this age will ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog’s response to you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can result – so don’t take the chance.

He’ll now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought about by his growing sexual maturity, and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you haven’t already, you should have him neutered during this time. (Or spayed if you have a female.)

Stage 7: The Young Adult Stage 6-18 Months

The Young Adulthood stage lasts from 6 months to about 18 months, and is usually a great time in your dog’s life - he’s young, he’s exuberant, he’s full of beans – and yet he’s learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog.

Be realistic in your expectations of your dogat this time – just because he’s approaching his full growth and may look like an adult, he’s not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect. Gradually increase the scope of activities for your dog, as well as the training. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training, if that’s something both of you are interested in. Otherwise, extend his activities to include more people and other animals – allow him to interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs.

Congratulations! You’ve raised your puppy through the 7 stages of childhood, er, I mean puppyhood, and now you have a grown-up, adult dog! Almost feels like you’ve raised a kid, doesn’t it?

Okay, that should be enough for you to start to understand some of your puppy's behaviors as he or she grows to maturity.

5 Easy Train My Puppy Tips

2010-01-13T12:45:00.000-08:00

Who does not love puppies? Of course, every one of us would like to own puppies because they are man's best friend. Having a puppy does not only bring fun to a person's life but it also comes with new responsibilities. These responsibilities should not be neglected instead these must be one of your priorities. Yes, puppies are cute but there is a higher possibility that they can be a nuisance at your home if they are not trained well. They can be a threat to your visitor if they are not properly taught. For you to have a fun and enjoyable time with your puppy here are 5 easy puppy training tips that would be helpful to you.

Tip 1. Never leave your puppy unattended. If the puppy is not well trained, he tends to follow his instincts by biting your sofa, peeing on the floor, climbing on your bed, and others. To avoid this, you must keep an eye on him and train him not do these things. If you do not have enough time to oversee your new puppy, you can try getting a dog kennel of highest quality.

Tip 2. Expose your puppy to the outside world. Let your dog socialize by bringing him into the park where there are lots of people as well as other dogs. But before bringing the puppy at some crowded places, your puppy must already be used to being touched or patted by strangers. If you plan to bring your puppy to the vet for a check-up or to the pet shop to be groomed, you must check the puppy's teeth, pat the paws, hold the belly, and stroke the ears before proceeding to the shop. With these, your puppy will not be conscious when you bring him to the vet, the groomer, or if some children wants to touch your puppy.

Tip 3. The effective puppy training tips include the use of hand signals and motivation. Hands signals will help tell the puppies what their masters want them to do. Since dogs are very good at reading body language, it is most advantageous to teach them when they are still puppies. Motivation is another factor that hastens the training pace of your puppy. Positive reinforcements are highly recommended when training your puppy the basic skills like sit, roll over, and lie down.

Tip 4. Feed the puppy on a regular schedule. If the puppy knows the specific time to eat, the puppy will be trained to be never violent with his bowl when eating. In this training, obesity of your puppy can also be prevented. If the puppy knows his feeding schedules, it follows that he will easily learn to obey a command such as stop, sit, and move.

Tip 5. You must never appear dominant for your puppy when training him. Show him leadership not dominance. Teach your puppy to just lie with their belly instead of the "Alpha roll".

Of these 5 easy puppy training tips, the most important is letting your dog learn how to socialize. Remember to always pat his head, rub his warm belly and touch his whole body so he could automatically adjust should other people give him a pat on the head.

Everyone wants to have his own dog. But it is wise to already bring a dog in your house while he is still a puppy. A puppy can be easily trained as you can teach him a specific behaviour you want him to possess. Crate training puppy is the most efficient and effective way of training a puppy. What is crate training? Is it easy to do? These are some questions you may ask yourself.

What is crate training?

Your dog should learn to love their crate so that they won't pee or destroy it. Crates for them should be their safe haven or their special den. During the training you must prepare the following,

a)an appropriate crate for your puppy,
b)diary and pen,
c)toy and
d)rewards or treats.

The crate should not be too large since having a huger crate for your puppy will encourage him to pee on one end and sleep on the other. Crate training puppy would be enough for your puppy to learn when and where to pee or poop. Through this training he will learn to control his bowel movement. In the future with the help of this training, you can already leave him unsupervised and run free on your house.

How to do it

Immediately put your puppy in the crate after he arrives at your house. Don't let him free when he's unsupervised because he will surely chew on your sofa and poop everywhere without proper training. The puppy must only stay at the crate for only a short period of time. Locking him up in the crate for longer periods will just worsen the behaviour of your puppy. Never let the puppy out when he is just fussing. If you let him out, you teach him to just fuss enough so he could get out of the crate. Give him lots of rewards like toys when he is in the crate. For two hour intervals, let him out and bring him to a place where he could eliminate. If he doesn't poop then bring him back in the crate. Give him rewards or some treats when he poops the time you bring him out. As a reward, you can also let him run free in your house longer than the usual time.

Get your diary and record the time when he usually does his peeing and pooping. Use this as your basis on when to let him out to eliminate. Always praise him whenever he follows your command. If you already identify the specific time that your puppy pees, usher him to the right spot to pee. After several tries of this routine, he will learn when to pee and where. If you can observe a great improvement with his behaviour, you can lengthen the time of his exposure to the outside world and take him to a walk. In the crate training puppy, you need to avoid having mistakes because you have to go back to the training process for several weeks or even months if you fail to use it properly. Don't leave him alone even if he is in the crate.

If you need to go to the living room, take him with you by putting him on a leash. If you haven't observed any improvement after several months of training, you need to go back to the start of training process because you may have made some mistakes during the process. Remember, don't get mad at your puppy and don't be cruel if he messes up. Lastly, don't let the puppy see you cleaning his mess.

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Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_D_Johnson

How To Train My Puppy....Fast!!

2010-01-12T08:27:00.000-08:00

Hello Fellow Puppy Lover

All new pet owners want to learn how to house train your dog fast. We love our pets dearly, however, we do not care to clean up after them nor do we want them destroying our belongings. The key to successful training depends on how consistent and patient you are, and if you use praise and reward when your dog pleases you. Dogs are smarter than you think, and you will be surprised at how quickly your dog responds to praise.

The first thing you must do is put yourself in your dogs place. How do you feel when you have to go to the bathroom and can not go? Most of us get anxious and fidgety. Your dog does the same thing, but instead of biting their nails like we might do, they get in destructive mode, and will go where ever they can.

There are two important factors that you must keep in mind. One is scheduling what your dog eats, how much and when. Remember with a dog, what goes in, must come out. The other thing you must do is to let your dog know that he can depend on you taking him out on a regular basis so he can relax and be himself. This will also cut down on chewing, because a dog will chew out of nervousness, and they get nervous when they have to go potty and can not.

When you learn how to house train your dog fast you will understand that it all starts with preventing a mistake. Your dog should not have free run of the house until you trust him not to go inside. Keeping him confined until he is house trained is by far the fastest way to train him.
You can confine your dog with either a crate or a tether. The key to either of these methods working is to not leave your dog confined for long periods at a time, and to never use confinement as a form of punishment. It is also never necessary to spank your dog while you are training him. This gives him mixed signals from you.

Another tip that works great, is to have a special toy for your dog, and only give that toy to him when you will be gone for awhile, this way he relates you being gone as a special treat for him. If you do your part and remain consistent, and use praise and reward, you will be surprised at how fast you can house train your dog.

Discover the house training secrets that will show you How to House Train Your Dog Fast. You can even have him trained in 7 days! Free dog training report!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paula_Snyder